Thursday, February 10, 2011

Check


When was the last time you crossed something off of your life list? I know that some of you who read this are the smart ones, the folks who have achieved that fabled catbird seat of life where your daily job is proof and reinforcement of why you were put on the earth. Others of you are motivated jet setters methodically and rapidly crossing off your goals and developing new and loftier ones. Me, not so much. My ambitions are large, but I have not much ambition, so when I get to put a big fat line through something on my wish list, it’s momentous.


Today was momentous. Since the first time I ever heard about the Cambodian ruins of Angkor Wat as a child, I’ve dreamed of seeing and exploring them. Though I only scratched the surface today, I get to cross it off the list. I don’t really know where to begin describing the experience. Is it the sheer size of this eighth wonder of the world? The complexity and intricacy of both the grand, functional design and the fine finishing strokes? The fact that it was all done by hand and took three quarters of a million people decades of constant work to create the final product? The religious and spiritual significance palpable at every turn? The mystery that surrounds the downfall and disappearance of the culture responsible for the wonder that is Angkor Wat? The feeling is too new, raw, overwhelming to put a finger on right now, as I’m still getting my head around it, but kindly stay tuned for further, extensive gushing.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Rumors of War...

...have been greatly exaggerated, at least in he area where I crossed into Cambodia today. These guys are no fools. They have Angkor Wat on their flag, they aren’t going to start shooting up the border point that provides access to it, their largest cash cow. I wore my loudest tourist outfit, just in case. Almost went out and bought some dark socks and blue blockers to make sure they knew I was the real touron McCoy, but the shirt I wore, I feel there was no doubt. In short, a painless crossing. I won’t go into details concerning the train ride, save to make those not already so aware of the fact that a late night meal of Indian food before a pre-dawn six hour train ride is, well that’s just silly.

Priceless

Total cost of ground transportation from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Cambodia, including the $1.70 (yes, $1.70 for a six hour, 200 mile ride) train ticket from Bangkok to the Cambodian border, tuk-tuk transportation across the border, and taxi ride to my hotel in Siem Reap: $23.


Cost of plane ticket from Bangkok direct to Siem Reap: $334.


Fact that there is a Thai-Cambodian border war taking place where I need to cross if I use ground transportation, a real live conflict with mortars and rockets and fleeing civilians: Priceless.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Rant on Rave

Let’s talk about rave music. It’s been on my mind a lot lately. Actually, it’s permeated every facet of my life for the last three days, rattling my head as it rattles the glass panes in the windows of my rented room, perched a hundred feet up and back from the non-stop party beach that is Hat Rin. Only now that it is obvious that the moon is no longer full are people showing any signs of letting up; during the days and nights following the main bacchanal, when it was hard to detect that the moon was waning, the band played on.


Not the band, rather, but the DJ. Now, DJ’s are supposed to be a creative lot, mixing beats and cleverly juxtaposing songs to keep the party going, for three days in this case. Great. It would seem like a worthy challenge, then, to reach deep into the music collection to come up with a variety of songs that kept the music fresh and interesting; dazzle us with the depth and breadth of your musical knowledge and mixing skill, oh clever and creative DJ!


Or, despite having access via the internet to every piece of music since the dawn of man translated into a set of ones and zeroes, you could just rehash the same eleven popular techno songs ad nauseum for three days, like some sort of nonstop top forty radio station that’s lost over half its collection. And also like a top forty station, every time a new DJ comes on, he establishes himself as hip and dazzles the party with his musical taste by...playing those same eleven songs. And keep in mind that this is a kilometer long stretch of beach lined with bars and clubs, all holding beach parties, each with a bumping sound system, each with a DJ, each armed with the same eleven songs. So, if your eyes are getting stung by blowing foam from the bubble generator, or the smell of fuel from the giant flaming jumprope or the whirling fire dancers is getting to you, or this particular set of drunken Aussies is getting too unruly, you can move down the beach to the next club, the next beach party, where an all new creative and inventive DJ will be playing...the same eleven songs. Which may mean that you leave one party, walk a hundred paces down the beach, and into another party where the DJ is just firing up the song that drove you away from the last party.


Here’s what I don’t get. These eleven songs are popular right now because they are new, right? Which means that they have supplanted, by nature of their newness, the last eleven popular techno songs. The supplanted songs, though older, were as popular in their time as these new songs are now. They had the same ability to make people want to dance. So they aren’t cutting edge, but they are still effective. Why not take those eleven older songs and put them in the mix, bringing the playlist to twenty-two? Or, delve back even further into techno popularity, all the way back to 2010, and access even more once cutting edge songs, really expand the repertoire. Though that may expose you to criticism, brand you as a DJ dinosaur, I, being blind to what was popular last month on the techno scene, would be most appreciative of a little variety. I may be drunk, but you played the same tune four songs ago.


If I sound confident putting the number at eleven, it’s because I counted. Not at first, but after a day and a half of fairly continuous drinking and dancing, I started paying attention. Then I became a little obsessed, making a list with notes that read things like ‘polka number,’ ‘Italian job,’ ‘BEPeas #2,’ and ‘Matrix ripoff.’ I had to assign names I could easily recognize, as I don’t normally keep up on my techno, being more of a fan of people playing instruments. That said, if techno has a place, it is most certainly on a Thai beach keeping people up and moving for three days. Techno certainly does make one want to move. The driving beat, the constantly modulating, elevated tempo that builds to irresistibly danceable crescendoes, the groupthink feeling it generates amongst a seething mass of chemically altered brains and bodies, the chest rattling, organ shifting bass lines, well, it’ll make you tap your toes for sure. No, I’m not normally one for techno, or nonstop dancing, for that matter, but pump me full of Thai whiskey and Red Bull, the real stuff, slap a bunch of day glo paint on me, throw a huge howlable moon above a semicircle crescent of tropical beach sand, and drop me in the middle of a living breathing mass of sweaty, undulating humanity wriggling around to a nonstop driving beat, and, hell, that’s what I came here to see and do, so let’s dance. If only, if only, could someone maybe play a different tune?

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Rudimentary

I won’t call my current digs ramshackle, but I will say that I just borrowed a ladder, hammer, and nails to reaffix a loose piece of corrugated tin that flapped noisily in the wind last night and kept me awake. Then I rented a towel. Tomorrow, I will cadge a toilet seat and this place will start to feel downright homey. No, not ramshackle exactly. How about...rudimentary.

Rash Decision

My resolve against riding scooters in general and especially in tropical vacation spots stays strong. Four days on a world famous full moon party beach has, in fact, strengthened it immeasurably. I have seen just about every kind of road rash injury imaginable, from shaved down and bandaged heads to mummified feet swathed in plastic bags to protect against moisture, with plenty of slung arms and exhaust burn bandaged calves in between. Large scale skin loss does nothing to slow people’s party resolve. They return to the seething fray to dirty their fresh wound dressings and, with two guys swinging a flaming jumprope on the beach, maybe add a few more. Enough fresh scooter wounds about to answer the question I formulated the first few times I wandered the streets of Hat Rin: Why are there so many medical clinics around here?